Braised Green Beans with Tomato and Garlic (Fasoulia bi Zeit)

Try as we may to divide ourselves into distinct groups, food seduces us back toward each other, whether it be a common love for it, or a cultural tie to a dish we never knew we shared.

The Middle East is often portrayed as being so foreign, wild even. Yet many times when I have introduced a friend or colleague to an Arabic dish, they welcome it with familiarity; their grandmother from Malta or Cyprus used to make something like it, or they've had something similar at their favorite Greek restaurant. This recipe is one of them.

Growing up, we ate this fasoulia bi zeit - green beans stewed in a rich, garlicky tomato sauce, bi zeit meaning "in oil" - as part of a mezze spread, or at family gatherings quite regularly. This preparation sees the beans eaten cold or at room temperature, spiced with mint and drizzled with oil, for a fresh but filling vegetarian dish.

Fasoulia is also commonly made with beef or lamb, seasoned with the warmer spices of cinnamon, cardamom, cloves, and served hot over rice. This meat version with rice, fasoulia w ruz, is gorgeous with white beans if the green ones are out of reach.

Either way, my little trick is to keep the garlic cloves whole, and let them slowly sweeten and melt into the savory sauce.

GREEN BEANS WITH TOMATO AND GARLIC

FASOULIA BI ZEIT

Provisions:

1kg / 2lb fresh green beans

5 whole cloves garlic

1 medium onion

1 400g / 14oz can good-quality roma tomatoes

1 tsp dried mint, plus more for garnish (or dill)

Salt and pepper, to taste

Olive oil, for sautéing

Water

Method:

Wash the green beans well and pat dry with a clean towel. Trim the ends and set aside. Peel the garlic (leaving them whole), and finely dice the onion.

Heat a drop (about 1 tbsp) of olive oil in a large, heavy-bottomed pot over medium heat. Add the onions, and saute 4-5 minutes until softened, but not browned. Stir in the garlic and sauté an additional minute, until fragrant.

Add the beans and the tomatoes to the pot, plus 1/3 of the tomato can full of water. Fold the beans, tomatoes, garlic and onions together until well coated. Season with salt and pepper to taste, and sprinkle the mint on top. 

Bring to the boil then cover and simmer on low heat for 50 minutes, stirring occasionally. 

Remove the lid, turn up the heat to medium, and simmer an additional 10 minutes until the sauce has thickened to your liking (I prefer it to coat the vegetables without being too runny). 

Serve hot or cold, sprinkled with extra mint and drizzled with extra virgin olive oil.

Audio pairing: Gotye, "Easy Way Out"

Change and Kibbeh

Today was moving day. Mounds of boxes, appliances shifting from one place to the next, scrubbing top to bottom, and many a precious wedding accessory (my dress, his suit and our rings) to delicately avoid in the hurried process.

At the stroke of noon came respite in the form of these hot, crunchy kibbeh: little purses of bulghur, lamb, pine nuts and 7-spice.

A squeeze of lemon was all they (and we) needed. Back to work we went... full-bellied and optimistic about the vast symbolism of this routine apartment move.

Audio pairing: Purity Ring. "Ungirthed"

Teta's Orange Cake

Now more than ever - juggling a renovation, moving in 3 days, and our wedding in less than 30 - do I believe in rewarding life's little victories. Like scoring moving boxes at $2 a pop, or discovering there's one last pair of your perfect wedding shoes in stock, in your size, after being told they were totally sold out.

Yesterday, our reward came in the form of another bout of spontaneous baking. This time, it was the urge to fill our increasingly boxed-up home with the cheerful, citrusy scent of fresh orange cake.

Orange cake may appear out of place on a Middle Eastern food blog, but this recipe comes to you from a very special kitchen in Amman, Jordan: my Teta's - grandmother's - kitchen. This sweet, simple yet incredibly aromatic cake has been in my life as long as I can remember, and holds in its delicate crumbs some of my favorite childhood memories.

With the zest of four whole oranges, plus a fresh orange juice glaze, each bite pays a loving homage to a fruit widely grown in the Middle East; the fruit that my own family once grew on an orchard in Gaza. The combination of canola oil and four eggs lends a richness that even a true connoisseur may mistake as the result of endless butter.

The juice and icing sugar glaze is my mother's addition, and one not to be missed. Simply mix, poke several holes in the top of the hot cake, and pour all over. It's magic.

TETA'S ORANGE CAKE

Makes 1 10" bundt cake; Dairy free

Provisions:

4 eggs

1 cup canola oil

1 1/4 cup raw sugar

1.5 tbsp vanilla extract

Zest of 4 oranges

3/4 cup fresh orange juice

2 1/2 cups all purpose flour (may substitute wholemeal, but it will yield a denser cake)

2 tsp baking powder

Optional glaze: 1/3 cup fresh orange juice + 3 tbsp icing sugar 

Method:

Preheat oven to 180C / 350F. Grease and flour a standard 10" bundt pan.

In a large bowl, whisk the eggs, sugar, oil, vanilla, grated orange rind and juice until well incorporated and smooth. Add the flour and baking powder and mix again until smooth.

Pour the batter into the prepared bundt pan and bake 40-50 minutes, or until an inserted toothpick comes out clean. Invert the cake onto a cooling rack.

While still warm, use a toothpick to poke several holes along the top of the cake. Whisk 1/3 cup fresh orange juice with 3 tbsp icing sugar to make a glaze. Drizzle the glaze over the toothpick holes.

Slice and serve with a hot mug of tea or Arabic coffee.

Audio pairing: Oum Kalthoum improvisation in Morocco

Yogurt-Marinated Chicken Shish Kebab

Entertaining quickly climbed my list of pastimes when I first experienced living on my own. I found such joy in planning a menu (even if it was just finger food), leisurely cooking to my favorite music, and letting the drinks flow as friends came in to share a big meal. My parents are renowned entertainers, often inviting large groups of friends over for dinner and Latin dancing. Hosting my own fetes must have been my way to reconnect with that feeling of being surrounded that I cherished from home.

Over time I learned that early preparation is key. I started preparing things the night before - marinating meats, slicing vegetables and the like. Today's chicken shish kebabs are a classic example of a dish you can prepare the night before and enjoy with guests, or just for dinner, with minimal effort and maximum flavor: overnight, the chicken marries into an aromatic yogurt blend, spiked with cumin, garlic and smoky Spanish paprika.

A handy tip I learned recently is to use two skewers per kebab, if using bamboo. This makes for easy turning on the grill or grill pan. If you're trying to impress someone, the stability of two skewers makes it easier to achieve precise grill mark X's. If using metal skewers, one per kebab is plenty.

Marinating the chicken overnight allows the yogurt to tenderize the skinless chicken's otherwise dry meat, while allowing the spices plenty of time to infuse and flavor it. If you find yourself with only a few hours to spare, leave the chicken to marinate at room temperature until the last moment before cooking.

YOGURT-MARINATED CHICKEN SHISH KEBAB

Makes six 10" skewers

Provisions:

2 boneless skinless chicken breasts

1 quantity Spicy Yogurt Marinade

Olive oil, for brushing the grill pan
12 bamboo or 6 metal skewers

Method:

Rinse and pat dry the chicken breasts, and slice them into 1.5" cubes.

Assemble the marinade and pour into a large Ziploc (or other) freezer bag. Add the chicken cubes to the marinade, mixing to coat. Release all excess air from the freezer bag, seal, and place in the fridge to marinate at least 2 hours or preferably overnight.

Remove the marinated chicken from the fridge and allow to reach room temperature. If using bamboo skewers, place the skewers in a large baking dish and cover with water, allowing to soak unti the chill has left the chicken (this helps prevent the wood from burning while cooking).

Assemble the kebabs. Hold two bamboo skewers together in one hand (or, one metal skewer). Shake any additional marinade from the chicken pieces with the other hand, and evenly space the pieces throughout the length of each skewer, leaving about 1.5 inches at one end. Repeat until all chicken has been distributed.

Preheat a large grill pan  (or fire up your grill) to medium-high heat. Brush lightly with olive oil, and sear each skewer for 3-4 minutes on each side, until nicely browned but still tender.

Serve with yogurt, salad and crunchy vegetables on the side.

Audio pairing: Twinsy, "Take Me Home"

All-Purpose Spicy Yogurt Marinade for Meat

Sweet, smoky, rich and earthy, all in one bowl, prepared in two minutes. This spicy yogurt marinade comes together in a moment but adds depths of flavor to any cut of meat - red, white or fish - that you may have on hand, or be inspired to try.

Often I marinate meat simply in lemon juice, olive oil and fresh herbs. With winter weather cruising in, and to reward the Australian Man and myself for our hard work renovating and wedding planning, this warmer, richer blend makes whatever we're cooking feel extra special.

Yogurt is widely used in the Arab world as an accompaniment to prepared dishes due to its cooling qualities. As a marinade, it is an incredibly effective tenderizer, ensuring that even the most infamously dry cuts of meat (like skinless chicken breasts), remain tender and juicy once baked or grilled.

Tomato paste and a whole chopped lemon - peel intact - are the other two magic ingredients, infusing layers of flavor and effervescence. Whichever protein you choose, coat it generously in the marinade and allow to marry for at least two hours - an overnight stay together is highly recommended - then roast or grill as usual.

SPICY YOGURT MARINADE

Marinates up to 700g of raw poultry, beef, lamb or fish

Provisions:

1 tsp sweet paprika

1 tsp smoked Spanish paprika

1 tsp ground cumin

1 tbsp garlic powder

2 tsp coarse salt

3 tbsp extra virgin olive oil

1 cup plain yogurt

2 tbsp tomato paste (no salt added)

1 whole lemon, washed and cubed (peel on)

Method:

In a large mixing bowl, whisk together the sweet paprika, Spanish paprika, cumin, garlic powder and salt. Whisk in the olive oil to make a loose paste. Mix in the yogurt, tomato paste and chopped lemon (with peel).

Add your raw meat of choice - poultry, beef, lamb or fish - and marinate at least two hours. For best results, marinate in the fridge overnight.

Audio pairing: Cut Copy, "Pharaohs and Pyramids"

Zaatar Croissants

Some days, I am spontaneously inspired to bake. Like lightning, the urge strikes seemingly out of nowhere, and soon enough I'm rummaging through our cupboard to see what might make a happy union in my mixing bowl.

Over the weekend, one such craving hit. Specifically, for savory, zaatar-filled twists like the ones my college roommate and best friend from Beirut used to make on dizzy mornings... predictably following dizzy nights.

Similarly to my zaatar pastries, these little 'croissants' get their unique Middle Eastern flavor from the famed oregano spice blend, as well as extra virgin olive oil. They are also rolled into little crescent shapes, which makes them fast-cooking and lovely to present for brunch or with afternoon tea. The 2:1 ratio of wholemeal to plain flour makes a chewy, substantial dough that is still light enough to have as a guilt-free snack.

At first this recipe may seem complicated, since it requires hand-making dough. It really does come together quickly, and is ideal for making with kids, who will enjoy the rolling part. I've outlined the steps in detail, but after the first try, the process will be a breeze.

If you find yourself up early on a Sunday morning, whip up a batch of dough and go about your morning business while it rises. By the time your special someone awakes, they'll be greeted with fresh, ready-to-bake bread. 

ZAATAR CROISSANTS

Makes 15 small croissants

Provisions:
For the dough
   2 cups wholemeal flour
   1 cup plain flour
   1 tbsp dry yeast
   1 tsp raw sugar
   Pinch salt
   1 1/4 cup warm water
   Extra virgin olive oil
For the filling
   1/2 cup zaatar, plus extra for garnish (this can be purchased from Middle Eastern stores)
   3 tbsp extra virgin olive oil

Method:
In a large mixing bowl, combine the wholemeal flour with the yeast, sugar and salt. Add the water and olive oil and mix with a fork until a wet dough forms. Add half of the all purpose flour and combine once more.

Spread the remaining all purpose flour on your work bench. Place the dough in the middle and knead, incorporating the remaining flour, until smooth and elastic. Transfer the dough to a lightly oiled bowl. Cover with plastic wrap, then a tea towel, and let rise in a warm place until doubled in size, about 1 hour.

Preheat oven to 190C / 375F.  Mix the zaatar and olive oil to make a paste.

Punch down the dough, then knead for 1-2 minutes on a lightly floured surface. Divide the dough into three equal portions. Roll each portion out into a circle, about 1/2cm thick. The dough will shrink, but just keep rolling. If it will not keep its shape, you can stretch each piece manually in the next step.

Slice each circle of dough into 8 equal triangles, as if cutting a pizza (see photo below). Place a small teaspoon of zaatar at the outermost edge of each triangle.

Roll each triangle, from the widest part moving in towards the center, to form a twist. Curl the edges toward each other to form a croissant shape.

Place the croissants on a lightly oiled baking sheet. Brush lightly with olive oil and sprinkle some extra dry zaatar mix on top, for garnish. Bake for 10-12 minutes until golden brown.

Audio pairing: SebastiAn, "Embody"

Tarte au Citron with Whipped Coconut Cream

Every person has some attribute that identifies them, sets them apart from the rest - a cackling laugh or unusual eyes, maybe. Many might assume that my mom's is her fiery red hair. It surely helps pick her in a crowd, but for me, mom's special something is her ability to make those around her feel happy and light.

Tarte au Citron - the famed French lemon tart - is mom's favorite. With a thin layer of tangy lemon sabayon (made the traditional French way, whisked over a double boiler) and a sweet buttery case, who can blame her. My addition of whipped coconut cream is perfect for cutting through the puckery lemon... and also lends a little hint to the flavor palette of our wedding cake, which she picked out for us.

As you may have gathered from my ramblings on this blog, this year has been a particularly big one for us. As always. mom has encouraged us every step of the way and, more personally, taught me so much about embracing life no matter what it presents us.

So mom, thank you for teaching me to make life fun, be open-minded and see the world through happy eyes. Thank you for being the calmest mother-of-the-bride imaginable and helping us buy our first home, even though it means we'll be apart a little while longer.

And of course, thank you for meticulously selecting our perfect wedding cake, scouring Washington's finest bakeries for "the one," even when it meant cake for breakfast, double and triple checking, and licking various buttercreams from spoons. It must have been hard, hard work.

Happy Mother's Day!

TARTE AU CITRON WITH WHIPPED COCONUT CREAM

Quantities and method adapted from Thomas Keller's Bouchon and Epicurious.com

Makes one 12-inch tart

Provisions:

For the tart shell

   10 1/2 tbsp unsalted butter, melted

   1/2 cup sugar

   1/2 tsp vanilla (I use vanilla bean paste)

   1 1/2 cups + 2 tbsp all purpose flour

   Pinch of salt

For the lemon sabayon

   4 whole eggs, cold

   4 egg yolks, cold

   1 1/2 cups raw caster sugar

   1 cup freshly squeezed lemon juice

   6 oz butter, cubed

For the whipped coconut cream

   300ml whipping cream

   1/4 tsp all-natural coconut extract

Method:

This recipe is best prepared by making the tart crust first, followed by the sabayon in two batches. It's important not to skip making the curd in two batches - it won't thicken properly if made as one large mixture. Finally, whip the coconut cream when you're ready to serve.

Prepare the tart. Preheat oven to 190C / 375F. In a standing mixer or with a wooden spoon, mix the melted butter, sugar and vanilla until combined. Add the flour and salt, mixing again until incorporated. Transfer the dough to a 12" tart pan with a removal bottom. Using fingertips, press the mixture evenly into the pan, trimming any excess. 

Prick the pastry base all over with a fork. Place in the refrigerator to set for 10-15 minutes, then bake for another 15 minutes, until gently golden. The pastry may puff up in the oven - just pat the base down with a spoon once cooked.

Prepare the sabayon. In a glass or metal mixing bowl, combine the whole eggs, yolks and sugar. Beat for 1 minute until smooth. Pour half of the mixture into a separate bowl and set aside. Bring about 1.5 inches of water to boil in small pot (preferably 1-2 inches smaller than your mixing bowl). 

Set the mixing bowl over the pot of boiling water, and allow to heat for 1-2 minutes, stirring occasionally. Begin whisking steadily. After about 2 minutes, when the eggs are foamy and thickened slightly, add about 1/6 of the lemon juice. Continue whisking steadily and, after it thickens again (another 3 minutes), and add another 1/6 of the lemon juice. Whisk an additional 3 minutes until thickened further, adding another 1/6 of the lemon juice. 

Continue whisking until the mixture is thick, lightened and the whisk leaves a trail in the bottom of the bowl. Remove the pot from the heat (keeping the bowl on top), and add the butter, one piece at a time, until melted. Set this finished sabayon aside and repeat the process with the other half of the egg mixture.

Preheat your broiler. Combine both batches of sabayon and pour evenly into the baked tart shell. While the sabayon is still warm, place the tart under the broiler (leaving the door open) to brown lightly. This will only take a few seconds so don't walk away from the oven!

Prepare the coconut cream. Using a standing or hand mixer, whip the cream until soft peaks form. Add the coconut extract and continue whipping until fluffy and set.

Serve each slice with a dollop of coconut cream as a reward for your efforts!

Audio pairing: Quantic + Nickodemus, "Mi Swing Es Tropical"

Baklava Baked Apples

In years past, I never would have claimed Autumn as my favorite season. Despite the turning leaves and pleasant weather, Autumn was little more than a harbinger of back-to-school doom and dwindling sunlight.

More recently I've taken to the cooler months, seizing every opportunity (real or imagined) to warm things up with moreish, aromatic treats. May is late apple season in Australia, and our local green grocer has been stocked with shiny Rome Beauties, perfect for baking.

Apples are not a widely-used cooking fruit in the Middle East, but I have been curious for some time about stuffing them with our flavors nonetheless. Combining soft, baked apples with floral baklava filling felt intriguingly feminine, and soon enough this little experiment was well underway.

Baklava's exact origin is hotly debated - is it Turkish? Lebanese? We may never know for sure. Fittingly, many a formula for the "perfect filling" has been created according to regional, and familial, tastes. My favorite baklava includes a variety of nuts in its filling. Here I've used almonds, pistachios and walnuts, but you can use your favorite or whichever you have on hand that day.

The ideal serving is half an apple drizzled with honey, or topped a dollop of lightly whipped cinnamon cream. Resting the apples for 5-10 minutes after baking will make a clean slice - filling intact - much easier.

White Coffee (Ahwa Beida)

Today I share with you something that is more a ritual than a recipe - something that can be made in mere moments to soften the edge of a rough day, or settle the stomach after a most indulgent meal. It's ahwa beida, or "white coffee" - the soothing soothing after-dinner cocktail named after coffee, that isn't coffee, and doesn't involve alcohol.

Coffee is an essential part of social life in the Middle East. Among Middle Eastern families it is quite common to have a designated coffee maker who takes orders - black, a little sweet, very sweet - and saunters to the stove after shared meals to brew it our special way, boiled three times in an ibrik (in my family, it's my uncle, Suhayl).

However, if one has perhaps overindulged, or prefers a light digestive, they may order ahwa beida instead: steaming hot water with a few drops of rose or orange blossom water.

I have recently taken a tremendous liking to this simple but calming drink, my interest reignited by my parents' trip to Australia this year, when my dad asked for it after a buffet of delights from Queen Victoria Market. If I feel a cold coming on, I use it as an excuse to swirl in some raw honey. Play with the amount of flower water to your liking - my happy place is about 1 tsp in a standard mug.

"WHITE COFFEE" (AHWA BEIDA)

Provisions:

Hot water

Several drops orange blossom water or rosewater

Method:

Boil enough water for several mugs around the table, and set aside to cool for a moment. Add a few drops of orange blossom water to each mug, to taste - about 1 tsp. Swirling in a drop of honey is optional, but especially good if fending off a cold.

Audio pairing: Telepopmusik, "Breathe"

Prawns with Tomato, Dill and Feta

Goodbye April, welcome May - how quickly time is passing. It's already time again for another SRC reveal!

Each month, I step outside Wandering Spice to participate in the Secret Recipe Club, a Secret Santa of recipes, so to speak, where bloggers across the globe are paired up to prepare a dish from another's blog. It's been a refreshing way to peer beyond my own happenings and into the world of other food lovers and writers. It was a matter of serendipity that this month I was connected with Shari in New York.

Shari cooks her way through her mother's treasured recipes and shares anecdotes about family life. After reading only a few of her stories, I fell in love with what sounded like the perfect lunch: prawns braised in a fragrant tomato sauce, softened with earthy oregano and dill and topped with sharp feta. Tastiness aside, it was the significance of the recipe that drew me in and begged me to try it. It was just so timely.

In less than six weeks the Australian Man and I will trek 24 hours to Washington DC to get married, reunite with family we haven't seen in two years, and relax after what will have been a wonderful but incredibly busy year.

Amidst the many projects we are juggling, I am calmed and reassured that regardless of the seemingly endless daily task lists, long days, and early mornings, that time spent in the company of my family is just around the corner. Judy and I may not know each other, but after reading about her experience - her vulnerability but excitement, her love for family, her connection to loved ones through the kitchen - I believe we would understand each other.

PRAWNS WITH TOMATO, DILL AND FETA

Serves 3-4; adapted from My Judy the Foodie for Secret Recipe Club

Provisions:

500g / 1 lb raw prawns

4 tbsp extra virgin olive oil

3 garlic cloves, minced

1/2 onion, minced

1 400g can good quality diced tomatoes

Zest and juice of 1/2 lemon

2 tbsp fresh dill, chopped

1 tbsp dried oregano

1/2 block (90g) feta cheese

Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Method:

In a medium bowl, toss the prawns, lemon zest, juice, half of the dill and oregano and fresh black pepper. Set aside to marinate.

In a large saucepan, heat the olive oil over medium heat. Add the onion and saute, stirring occasionally, 5 minutes until soft and translucent. Add the garlic and saute an additional minute until fragrant. Stir in the tomatoes, the remaining dill and oregano, and season with salt and pepper to taste. Bring to the boil, then reduce heat to low, cover and let simmer 15 minutes.

Fold the prawns into the sauce, making sure each one is amply coated. Increase heat to medium-high and simmer, stirring to coat occasionally, 3-4 minutes until the prawns are tender and cooked-through. Coarsely crumble the feta and sprinkle atop each serving.

Audio pairing: Kruder + Dorfmeister, Donauschingen